Better Cleaning with Booze

The SD300 builds each model atop a re-usable magnetic pad, which clings to the build platform. Each model starts by 'gluing' a foundation layer of PVC to the magnetic pad; plastic residues eventually accumulate until the magnet has to be replaced. Luckily it's really inexpensive.

Solido encourages regular cleaning of the magnetic pad with "an alcohol based cleaner." I had initially tried isopropyl rubbing alcohol. At 91% strength the alcohol evaporated too quickly to be useful, but at 71% strength it was only modestly effective. I tried cleaning with some grain alcohol I'd bought to remove wax from some work clothes and discovered it worked much better than isopropyl. Ethyl rubbing alcohol worked better still!


Each build leaves a bit of residue on the magnet, as shown here. This magnet has been used over two dozen times, but this tiny bit of residue is from only the last build because I've been cleaning it after every build.


It's effortless to clean the magnet after every build because I keep it in a mist-spray bottle. One disadvantage of Ethyl Rubbing Alcohol is an offensive odor imparted by the USP-mandated traces of acetone and ketone, presumably to prevent anyone from drinking it. (Blech!) But these additives might account for its excellent solvency.


After spraying with alcohol I clean the magnet with a microfiber cloth, which seems to be more-effective than paper towels. The whole cleaning job takes less than 20 seconds because I keep the cleaner and cloth handy, and it's a worthwhile habit.


Here are four used build magnets, showing how the surface of each one held up better as I learned better cleaning habits. The oldest one, at left, has white areas where models stuck so badly they started to pull the surface apart. Each magnet lasted longer than the last, but eventually they need to be replaced because the surface eventually loses its nonstick 'release' capability even if it's kept clean.

How to Check glue level

Back in May, I neglected to replace the glue cartridge when replacing the rest of the material kit and ruined a model because the SD300 ran out of glue during the next build. Since then I've tried to always replace the glue cartridge in sync with the PVC roll.

I learned to double-check the glue cartridge's capacity by shining a high-intensity LED flashlight through the side walls, which reveals the glue level as a bright line on the wall.

Today I was startled to discover the glue cartridge was essentially empty, even though there was plenty of PVC left in the material kit. There should've been plenty of glue left. Notice the bright line is all the way at the bottom.


I still had the glue cartridges from two recently-exhausted material kits. There was a little glue left in one of them, but that's how much is usually left over after a kit has been used up. The bright line is near the bottom.


When I checked the other "empty" cartridge the LED light showed it had a lot of glue left in it. Notice how the bright area is well above the bottom!


Probably I got an 'empty' cartridge swapped with a non-empty one when changing between colors recently. I shouldn't leave the empties nearby. It's fortunate I discovered it before the machine completely ran out of glue.

Damaged consumables

One of the boxes of consumables had a peculiar dent. It wasn't crushed very deeply, but the condition of the box suggested it had been subjected to heavy pressure sometime during shipping. And there's an ominous stain below the dent.


While setting it up, I found an anti-glue cassette inside the box was distorted and cracked. Some of the masking fluid was leaking out of the cassette. This cassette is pretty stout, so it must have been crushed pretty hard! Luckily I have spares, and Solidvision promptly promised to send a replacement.